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Aux Negociants: a Montmartre surprise PDF Print E-mail
Written by Axel Estable    Thursday, 07 August 2008 19:00
3.0/5 (2 votes)

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ImageStep away from the very touristic areas of Montmartre and you will come across a cute family restaurant. Montmartre is an absolute must-see on your trip to Paris, for all the things the hill has to offer: the Sacré-Coeur Basilica of course, and the picturesque Place du Tertre, but also cobble-stone alleys and winding stairs, which ooze authenticity and seem to come out of an old Parisian movie. Move away from the touristic areas and roam around the small streets... soon you will end up on the back side of the hill, see the vineyard and the Lapin Agile cabaret. Continue your way down to Rue Caulaincourt and hang a right and walk a little ways. There are cool restaurants and bars here and you will soon come across Aux Négociants, a small restaurant on a small side street.

The tiny restaurant is the polar opposite of the many brasseries that line touristy Place du Tertre,
QuotationThe tiny restaurant is the polar opposite of the many brasseries that line touristy Place du Tertre, Quotation
which are filled with tourists, staffed by often unpleasant personnel, serve mediocre food and are overpriced. At Aux Négociants the patrons are mostly regulars from the neighborhood, the wait staff is composed of the owner and his wife, and the cuisine has a delicious French family-style flair to it.
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The menu changes almost every day, but will usually include a pâté or terrine (pressed meat that was cooked in a oven and you spread on bread), a stew, a soup, and, above all, foie gras. If foie gras is something you enjoy, you must absolutely try this one! Compared to the small slice of pressed foie gras that you usually receive in restaurants the plate here sports a behemoth-size slice of home-made foie gras with divine taste and perfect texture. Of course if you don't eat foie gras, be it for taste or for ethical reasons, the menu has plenty to offer. Contrary to other restaurants where it is obvious that each plate has been prepared separately, it is clear that the owners make batches of each course and that everybody shares. In fact, you may be given the entire terrine in the casserole dish so that you can help yourself to a slice, and size, of your liking!

Image The wines change regularly as well, and are selected with great care by the owners. They are usually modest and therefore reasonably priced, but you can trust that they are selected by an expert because they are all a great value. If you are unsure which wine to choose with your meal don't hesitate to ask the owner or his wife - they will recommend the perfect complement to your food.

You will notice that many of the patrons know each other, will greet each other when walking in, and will often just stop by for a glass of wine at the counter and for a quick chat. In fact, some of them are featured on the Doisneau-style pictures on the walls! Needless to say, the presence of regulars is a great sign of a quality neighborhood restaurant - in this case, a hidden gem.

Image A full three-course dinner here will cost you about 50€ each, including the wine. This price includes the experience of a genuine Parisian neighborhood restaurant, where you are very unlikely to find other foreigners. In fact, you will not find an English menu there - the owner speaks a little bit of English, but not enough to translate the courses. If you are desperate, he may be able to find someone who can help you out among the other customers. He will probably engage in friendly conversation about your origin and your travels; if you are comfortable in French, and interested in cycling, be sure to veer the conversation into the direction of biking... you will quickly make a new friend!
 
Restaurant: Aux Négociants
Address: 27, Rue Lambert, 75018 Paris
Number: 01 46 06 15 11
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